A complete step-by-step tutorial for painting wood paneling on walls, including a full supply list and practical tips for a long-lasting, professional-looking finish.
We finally finished painting the McNay living room—what a difference! The fresh paint instantly brightened this character-filled space and gave it the coastal, airy vibe we were after.
Wall paneling tends to split opinions, but I’m on team love. Paneling is the original vertical planked look long before modern shiplap trends, and when painted well it becomes a timeless backdrop.
Below you’ll find the full step-by-step process we used, plus the supplies that made this transformation possible.
Supplies Used
- Krud Kutter or TSP substitute cleaner
- Clean rags
- Wood filler
- Putty knife
- Palm sander with 150-grit sandpaper
- Frog Tape painter’s tape
- Masking liquid (for glass)
- Drop cloths
- Zinsser BIN shellac-based primer
- Respirator mask
- Angled sash brush
- Roller frame and smooth roller covers
- Paint pail and paint tray
- Enamel paint (we used Behr Marquee Satin in the color Polar Bear)
Step-by-Step Painting Process
Preparing the surface and choosing the right primer are the keys to a durable, clean finish on wood paneling. Follow these steps for the best results.
1. Clean the walls thoroughly. Use a Krud Kutter or TSP substitute to remove dirt, grease, and residue so the primer and paint adhere properly.
2. Repair holes and imperfections. Fill old nail holes and other gaps with wood filler using a putty knife. Scrape off any excess and allow the filler to dry fully.
3. Sand smooth. Once the filler is dry, sand the patched areas with 150-grit sandpaper until they’re flush with the paneling. Wipe away dust with a damp rag or tack cloth to ensure a clean surface.
4. Protect surrounding surfaces. Use Frog Tape on molding, ceilings, and trim you don’t want painted. Lay down drop cloths to protect the floor.
5. Mask glass and hardware. Apply a thick coat of masking liquid on windows and glass doors where paint might splatter. Let it dry fully before continuing.
6. Prime the paneling. Use a shellac-based primer (like Zinsser BIN) to block potential stains and tannins that can bleed through paint. Apply primer with an angled sash brush into grooves and along edges, then roll the flat areas with a smooth roller to reduce visible brush marks. Wear a respirator and ventilate the room: shellac primers have strong fumes. Allow the primer to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
7. Paint for a seamless finish. Apply your enamel paint the same way you primed: brush paint into all grooves and trim first, then roll the flat surfaces in long, even passes to hide brush strokes. Two coats of quality paint typically yield the best, most even coverage—especially on darker or stained wood paneling.
8. Remove tape and masking liquid carefully. Immediately after painting, score the paint edge with a utility knife and peel up Frog Tape to avoid lifting dried paint. Score and peel the masking liquid from glass to reveal crisp, clean lines.
9. Final touch-ups. Inspect the walls after the paint is dry and touch up any thin spots or missed areas. Allow the paint to cure before rehanging hardware or moving furniture back into place.
On this project it took about four full days of work from start to finish. It was physically demanding, but the result was well worth the effort—the room feels brighter, fresher, and much more cohesive with our coastal design direction.
Next up: hanging curtains and sconces, bringing in furniture, and choosing coastal-inspired art to complete the look. The painted paneling sets a perfect neutral, sunlit stage for those finishing touches.
Paint transformations like this never fail to impress—small changes on the walls can completely change the feel of a room.
If you’d like to save this tutorial for later, pin the image below for easy reference:
